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Fish Bliss: Fish That Swim Right to Your Table By Jim Poris The New York Times May 21, 1995 Ed Freeman used to surf the huge break at Rincon, Puerto Rico, so he knows about the ocean. He also used to be a stockbroker, so he knows about taking risks. In 1988, he made a daring leap from Wall Street to Maplewood fishmonger, opening a store 25 paces from a King's supermarket and its well-stocked fish counter. "We do more business in a day than they do in a week" he said. "Our intention has always been to be the best fish market in New Jersey." Mr. Freeman's painstakingly arranged display, selected daily at the Fulton Fish Market, is one of the most elaborate and appealing to be found. The fish seem serene here after their trip through Fulton's rough-and-tumble. The deep-red tuna and swordfish are cut thick. Both are fatty enough to withstand a grill or a searing saut?pan. There's farm-raised Maine salmon priced to compete with King's and the more expensive plump Norwegian salmon for devoted followers. One recent day, Mr. Freeman's case held 18 other fin species, hard clams and oysters from a single bed off Long Island, glistening scallops, crabmeat from Louisiana and Maine and various sizes of saltwater shrimp. And there's more: a selection of fresh vegetables, a large case of prepared seafood, New Jersey wines, homemade pasta, sauces, bisques and soups. Mr. Freeman takes phone orders for delivery, caters clambakes and even makes gefilte fish for the Jewish holidays.